Compressor-Replacement Guide!

How To Do A Compressor-Replacement Correctly!


Compressor – Is the “heart” of the refrigeration system. It is a very durable machine, and if given proper care, this device will last up to more than 20 years. I have a 30 year-old refrigerator, and it is still kicking today.

When a compressor breaks down, we seldom have it repaired anymore. Because a repaired one will cost as much as a new one, and it will not last long in service.

Supply Cord

We will discuss the compressor-replacement method for the refrigerator and

freezer their compressor-replacement procedures are practically the same, except for the car air conditioner.

How to do a compressor-replacement:

1) Unplug unit from wall outlet.

2) Remove the current relay from the compressor.

Gauge Manifold

3) Hook up the gauge manifold, and connect the blue hose to the suction line, and the red hose to the discharge line.

4) If the system does not have suction and discharge service valves. Install new ones. You have two options here, you can braze them or use the “bullet piercing valve.”

Filter Dryer

5) Connect the yellow hose to the recycling machine.

6) Open blue and red manifold hand valves. And run recycling machine, until all the refrigerant is removed from the system.

7) Turn off recycling machine. Close manifold hand valves. And remove manifold from connections.

8) Remove filter/dryer. Replace it with a new one.

Compressor Repair

9) Fire up your Map Gas, and heat the suction copper joint to the compressor until silver melts, pull suction coil away using a long nose plier.

10) Do the same for the discharge copper coil joint.

11) Loosen anchor nuts. Remove compressor. Put it in a safe place.

Brazing Torch

12) An exact the same compressor must be installed. Tighten anchor nuts.

13) Clean suction and discharge copper tubing using a round tube cleaning brush. Apply silver flux on the surface.

14) Insert the suction copper tube into the compressor

Freon Gas

suction tube, and insert the discharge copper tube into the discharge tube.

15) Suction copper tube is always larger in diameter than the discharge copper tube.

16) Point the torch on the joint, moving a little bit up and down. When the color is red, apply silver on the

Vacuum Pump

joints. Let the silver flow all around. Move the torch up and down until a good joint is made. Do the same on both sides.

17) Apply wet clothes on the hot joints. When it is cold. Hook up the manifold. The blue hose to the suction service valve, and the red hose to the discharge service valve.


18) Connect the yellow hose to the vacuum pump. Plug power supply cord to the wall outlet.

19) Open manifold hand valves all the way for blue and red hose.

20) Start vacuum pump, and run it for a minimum of 1 hour. It is necessary to remove all the moisture, dirt,

metal pieces from the system before charging new refrigerant. If they are not removed, they will turn acidic and will eventually damage the newly installed compressor.

21) After 1 hour, close both red and blue hand valves. Turn off vacuum pump, and disconnect from wall outlet.

22) Remove pump. And install the yellow hose to a refrigerant cylinder. Your old compressor will tell you what kind of refrigerant to use.

23) Open refrigerant valve. Purge the yellow hose first to rid of air. Open blue valve slowly, and watch the pressure rising slowly on the compound gauge.

24) When you reach 30 psig, close the blue hand valve.

25) Use soap-water and start looking for leaks on the soldered joints. If you have an electronic leak detector, use it.

26) When everything is OK, plug in current relay to the compressor, and plug the power supply cord to a wall outlet.

27) Clamp a clampmeter on one of the compressor’s supply line. Set the reading to ampere.

28) With the compressor running, watch the needle of the compound gauge. It should start to go down.

29) Now you should hear hissing sound inside your freezer compartment.

30) Continue adding refrigerant until you have a reading of 6 to 8 psig on the low side and 175 psig on the high side for a refrigerator; 0 to 2 psig on the low side and 175 psig on the high side for a freezer; and 65 to 69 psig on the low side and 275 to 296 psig on the high side for window air conditioners.

31) Watch the ampere reading while the compressor is running. The more refrigerant you add, the higher the ampere reading you get. "You must strictly follow the manufacturer’s specifications."

32) Don’t over charge the compressor with refrigerant thinking that the more refrigerant it has the colder it will be. This is a wrong information and it will only increase the current load of the compressor and shorten its useful life.

33) After 30 minutes of running, and everything is OK, close the refrigerant tank valve. And disconnect all 3 hoses. Seal service valves with their own cap. Make sure there is a rubber o-ring inside the cap before capping.

Your compressor is now good as new. And it wasn’t so difficult to do a compressor-replacement after all. Right?

Remember, always give at least a 3 inch minimum distance to the back of your refrigerator and the wall. Provide scheduled preventive maintenance to your refrigerator and freezer, and your new compressor should last a very long time.

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